A taste of Provence

We hear about its flavours, fragrances, the light in which it basks. Inspiration for painters and poets, Provence offers its chefs all the secrets to ensure further flattery. A treat for the taste-buds in the land of Cézanne…

Exuberant Marseille, divine Avignon, charming Aix and authentic Saint-Rémy fly high the flags of Provence. In the Phocean city, one address is currently celebrating its 90th anniversary. Born in 1917 at the initiative of Germain, “Le Petit Nice - Passédat” has stepped into the 21st century with Gérald at the helm. Here, the chef concocts regional cuisine which has won him two stars in the Michelin Guide. The bar, known as “Le 1917” has been treated to a facelift with contemporary decor and a counter gilded with white gold-leaf. In the restaurant, the menu still features whole crab oven-baked with Mandarine pepper and a sautée of vegetables with a thread of cocoa, and rack of Aveyron lamb with spicy Massala to delight aficionados and tempt sceptics. Nestling in the Vallon des Auffes, “L’Epuisette” has set up its tables as close as possible to the deep blue sea. Guillaume Sourrieu (ex Troisgros, Loiseau…) proposes sea-inspired recipes such as rock-fish soup, cod “aïoli” with Mées olive-oil, and a 2-course “bouillabaisse” (the stock first, fish next). And don’t miss his lobster “tajine”, a unique experience ! The City of the Popes offers two essential addresses : “La Mirande” and “Christian Etienne”. The first nestles in a former cardinal’s palace where its young chef, trained by Alain Ducasse and Bruno Cirino, achieves a blend of purity and classicism. On the bill, an almost secret garden, a delightful terrace and supreme refinement. Christian Etienne’s restaurant backs onto the Popes’ Palace and continues to be a reference in Avignon. The maestro combines “Provençal” and “gastronomy”, tradition and work well done. The renown of his menus based on a single product, lobster in particular, has crossed the frontiers of Provence. On the hills beyond Aix-en-Provence, surveying the city of 40 fountains, “Le Clos de la Violette” is celebrating its 20th birthday. This bourgeois address, with a garden and bower (very popular) in fine weather, is expertly orchestrated by Jean-Marc Banzo. No outrageous or misplaced fantasy from this purist, who skilfully concocts great classics such as a hearty fillet of Mediterranean sole with a galette of carrots or oven-baked lamb with crisp “socca” and chick-pea purée ; when he produces a surprise, it takes the form of a “tarte tropézienne” with Montélimar nougat ice-cream and lavender honey syrup. Just close by, the “Villa Gallici”, a country house boasting 4 Michelin stars, welcomes the happy few as well as illustrious unknowns who come to sample the offerings of Christophe Gavot : “foie gras” cooked in a terrine with olives, candied melon and tender young salad, giant pan-fried scampi with a purée of courgettes in cocnut milk, spicy vinaigrette with ginger and, for those with a sweet tooth, lime mousse with crunchy gingerbread and vanilla-flavoured olive-oil. At the very heart of Provence, Saint-Rémy has retained its village atmosphere, even though prominent celebrities have adopted it as their favourite port-of-call. Even though his restaurant is renowned, Alain Assaud defends the spirit of local ingedients and those who have tasted it once return for his “tartine” of flap mushrooms and “aïoli”. A real fan of art, François Perraud, became a chef late in his career. No matter, “La Maison Jaune” with its old stones and blue shutters plays host to his delicious inventions : oven-roast pigeon in wine from Les Baux on chopped green cabbage and, as the apotheosis, “marats des bois” with basil-flavoured jelly.

Carnet

Le Petit Nice Passédat is this year celebrating its 90th anniversary. Still crowned with two stars, Gérald Passédat pursues the task unertaken by his elders. The setting is still enchanting, the cuisine is respectful of local produce and the Mediterranean a permanent source of inspiration. To be discovered, sooner rather than later, the Menu of the Sea…

La Mirande’s prestige has never waned and the arrival of Sébastien Aminot is this year’s delightful surprise. This former pupil of Ducasse and Cirinot proposes Provençal cuisine which goes right to the heart of the matter

The Villa Gallici is characterized by its charm and widespread renown ; in fact, the happy few are over the moon about this address. Christophe Gavot mans the ovens with remarkable inventiveness.

Alain Assaud, 13 bd Marceau, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (04 90 92 37 11). A partir de 30 €. Clos de la Violette, 10 av. de la Violette, Aix-en-Provence (04 42 23 30 71). Menu déjeuner : 50 €. Menu découverte : 90 €. Balade gourmande : 130 €. Carte : environ 99 €. Christian Etienne, 10 rue de Mons, Avignon (04 90 86 16 50). Menu du Petit Palais : 35 €. Menu Légumes du Printemps : 62 €. Menu du Palais : 62 €. Menu Homard : 77 €. Carte : environ 78 €. La Maison Jaune, 15 rue Carnot, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (04 90 92 56 14). Menus déjeuner et dîner : 35 et 64 €. Menu Dégustation Provençale : 54 €. La Mirande, 4 pl. de l’Amirande, Avignon (04 90 85 93 93). Menu du jour : 35 €. Menu dégustation : 105 €. Carte : environ 95 €. Table d’hôte : environ 85 €. L’Epuisette, vallon des Auffes, Marseille (04 91 52 17 82). Menu Cabanon : 50 €. Menu Vallon : 70 €. Menu des Calanques : 110 €. Carte : environ 93 €. Le Petit Nice - Passédat, Anse de Maldormé, Corniche JF Kennedy, Marseille (04 91 592 592). Menu Evolution : 95 €. Menu Bouille Abaisse : 125 €. Menu Passédat : 145 €. Menu Découverte de la Mer : 180 €. Villa Gallici, av. de la Violette, Impasse des Grands Pins, Aix-en-Provence (04 42 23 29 23). Menu carte : 90 €. Carte : environ 97 €.

Par Cécile Olivéro